Posts Tagged ‘repair’

  1. Replacing piano tuning pins

    January 28, 2012 by Karl

    Piano berry berry berry berry berry

    This post will show you how to replace a tuning pin on your piano.  If you have it done professionally, it will cost you a minimum of $1000 to have the entire piano re-pinned.  Here I will show you how to do it yourself for a fraction of that price.  You can typically get a full set of tuning pins for less than $100.  I will have some links at the bottom of this post with more information.

    When a piano gets old (more than 50 years) the tuning pins start to become loose in the pin block (a block of wood that is built into the piano).  This is due to the number of times the piano has been tuned over the years.  Each time the pins are adjusted, the hole becomes a bit bigger in the tuning block.

    There are several methods to take care of this problem, but the best overall method is to replace the existing tuning pins with the next larger size.  All other methods are just as time-consuming, and the results are not as not as good (I speak from the reading I have done on the subject, not personal experience).

    One concern in doing this is that you don’t want to crack the pin block.  A cracked pin block is will render the piano useless unless replaced.  To replace the pin block is very expensive on a grand / baby grand piano, but on an upright it is generally considered not doable.  To replace the pin block on an upright would require complete disassembly of the piano case.  The piano is built around the pin block on an upright piano.

    In an upright piano, there is no way to know for sure if the pin block is cracked, but generally, from what I read, if all the pins are loose and won’t hold a tune at all for more than a few hours, there is a good possibility that the block is cracked.

    The first step in replacing a tuning pin is to find out the current size of your pins.  The only way to do this is to remove one of the pins.  The video below will show you how to do this.  First take a look at the pins to see if they all generally look the same.  There may be a few that have already been replaced, and it will be somewhat obvious by the color / oxidation on the pins.  If none have been replaced, then you job is that much easier.

    In order to ensure that the pin block is not going to be cracked by the work you are doing, you SHOULD buy the proper size drill for the pin you are installing.  In my video, you will see that I have gone with a drill that is a bit smaller than it should be for the pin.  I may pay the price for this later by cracking the pin block.

    Here is a chart of pin sizes.  The proper drill bit is going to be .009 inch smaller than the pin diameter.  Yes, that is 9 thousandths of an inch.  There does seem to be some different information on the internet about the exact size of the drill bit, so there is probably a little wiggle room here, but I wouldn’t go to far. YOU MUST HAVE A MICROMETER to measure these pins correctly.  Borrow one, rent one, or take the removed tuning pin to a piano shop or machine shop to have them measure it for you.  I just happen to have my own, but most people do not.

    Size 2/0 – .282″ diameter

    Size 3/0 – .286″ diameter

    Size 4/0 – .291″ diameter

    Size 5/0 – .296″ diameter

    Once you know the diameter of the pins you need to replace, you should buy a pin that is one size bigger.  If you can get pins the same length, you may not need re-drill the hole, though there are also spoon type reamers that you can buy to prepare the hole for the new pin.  I’ve read that it is best to ream the hole as a minimum.

    You can buy the pins at a local piano shop if you are buying just a few, or you can buy them on-line at a piano supply house like THIS if you plan to re-pin the whole piano.

    Here’s my video on how I’ve done it.  Please be kind, this is my first video post.

    Please post a comment if you found this video helpful!

  2. Save money by repairing your electric dryer.

    January 11, 2012 by Karl

    Electric Dryerberryberryberryberry

    This article will show you how to save money by repairing your own electric dryer.  Electric dryers are relatively simple machines to fix.  With a little knowledge, the average home owner can fix their drier, no matter what the problem is.  Please note that gas dryers are not something I would encourage the average home owner to delve into.

    Electric dryers can last forever once you know how they work and how to fix them. They only generally have three basic areas that go wrong: The motor & drive belt which rotates the tumbler, the electric heater assembly, and the timer that controls it all. Of course each of the parts in these areas have their own price tag, and the owner needs to decide if it makes more sense to repair it, or replace it.   I would argue that if you can repair it yourself, it is never a good financial decision to replace an electric dryer. The most expensive part can usually be purchased somewhere online for around $100. Usually it is something very simple that goes wrong with one of these machines.

    Here are the most common things that generally go wrong with electric dryers.

    Is there power at the outlet?

    Let’s start with the very simple.  Is the houses circuit breaker tripped? Some circuit breakers actually look like they are on, but are actually tripped. The only way to be sure is to turn it off and then back on again. Unfortunately electric driers use 240 volts, so there is no other simple test to check that you have power at the outlet unless you happen to have a multimeter, and know how to use it. You can set the timer (mechanical timer), to see if it moves, but this isn’t foolproof.

    Dryer turns on, but the drum is not spinning:

    This is the simplest fix of all. It is the belt. Usually you can get the belt for less than $20 locally, or less than $10 online. I would highly recommend replacing the Idler wheel (the wheel that keeps tension on the belt) at the same time. Replacing a belt is a fairly simple procedure, and can usually be done in less than 30 minutes on most dryers. Search for your specific model number in order to find out the procedure for your dryer. Usually it is a matter of turning off the power, lifting up the top, unscrewing the front, and securing the new belt in place. You may need to print out a drawing of the path of the belt, because it can be a little confusing the first time you put one in.

    Dryer runs fine, but it takes forever to dry my clothes:

    This is usually due to lint in the dryer vent. Depending on the length of your dryer vent, this can be simple or more involved. Either way, all you should need in order to take care of this is a screwdriver. A large capacity vacuum would also be handy. Remove the hose from the back of the dryer, and use the vacuum (or your hand) to clean the lint out of the pipes. Remove each section as needed to clean the lint out of there. Make sure the path is clear all the way to the vent cap outside. If there is a lot of moisture mixed in with the lint, then it is possible that the distance of your dryer vent is too long. You may need to put in a booster fan in order to get it to vent properly.

    Dryer turns on, but there is no heat:

    This is usually either the thermal fuse, the thermostat, or the heater itself. To figure out which one it is, you will need to have a multimeter and know how to use it. Again, do an internet search with your model number to find out more. I will eventually be putting up a post on how to use a multimeter. Stay tuned. You can sometimes pick one up for a few dollars at a local hardware store, but for a good one you are going to pay at least $35.

    Nothing happens when I turn it on:

    This can either be the door switch, or the timer. The simplest way to check this out is to set the timer and see if it starts moving over time. If the timer is moving, then it is probably the door switch. The door switch can easily be jumpered out (bypassed) to verify that this is the problem. This gets kind of technical for the average home owner, but if you are up for the challenge, It’s not that difficult. You can also simply replace the door switch. You should be able to find one online for about $10 or less.

    That’s about it. Occasionally the motor will go, or the fan impeller will break, but this is relatively rare.

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